Garage Door Parts NZ: 20 Replacements You Can Buy Online
A jammed roller door or a flaky remote needn’t put the whole garage out of action. Most replacement parts can be on a courier truck the same day you click “Add to cart”, with overnight delivery to Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and plenty of rural depots. Skipping showroom mark-ups means you pay trade-level prices, fix the fault sooner, and avoid waiting for a technician who may not arrive until next week.
Before you order, the crucial step is matching the right name, size and model code to your existing gear. A spring wound the wrong way or a remote on the wrong frequency will cause more grief than the original fault, and it can void warranties or create genuine safety risks. To make life simple, we’ve gathered 20 of the most common garage-door parts Kiwis buy online—from universal remotes and torsion springs through to weather seals and backup batteries—along with quick buying checks, ballpark pricing and DIY install notes for each. Let’s get started.
1. Universal Garage Door Remote Controls
Remotes are the bit you handle daily and usually the first to fail or vanish. Swapping one out is inexpensive and, with the opener in reach, typically takes less than five minutes.
What a Remote Does & Failure Symptoms
Every fob fires a rolling-code pulse telling the opener to move or switch the light. One-button suits a single door; three-button models can also run your gate or shed. Common issues: flat battery, cracked case, or water damage that cuts transmission range.
Checking Compatibility Before You Click “Buy”
NZ units transmit on 433 MHz or 315 MHz. Flip your old remote—Merlin, Dominator and Guardian print the model code inside the battery cover. Can’t read it? A ‘learning’ universal handset often pairs with any post-2005 motor.
Typical Pricing & Easy DIY Programming Steps
Budget $25–$60 delivered from garage door parts NZ suppliers. To pair: press the opener’s ‘Learn’ button, tap the new remote, then wait for a confirming click or light flash. The whole process takes under two minutes.
2. Wireless Keypads for Keyless Entry
A wireless keypad screws to the door jamb and lets anyone with the PIN open or close the garage without hunting for a remote or house key. It’s the same tech used in motel safes: encrypted, battery-powered and independent from the home Wi-Fi, so a flat modem won’t strand you outside. For families, tradies or Air-bnb guests, a keypad is the simplest “extra remote” you’ll never misplace.
Why Upgrade to a Keypad
Each user can have a unique four- to six-digit code that you can change in seconds—handy when the kids forget their remotes or the courier needs one-off access. Lockout and temporary PIN features add a security bump over hiding a spare key under the pot plant.
Mounting & Weatherproofing Considerations
Choose an IP-rated enclosure that shrugs off Wellington sideways rain; most use a 9 V or two AA batteries good for roughly 12 months. Mount chest-height on the timber jamb or brick pier and keep it within 10 m line-of-sight of the opener for reliable RF signal.
Online Buying Checklist & Costs
Match the keypad to your opener brand—Merlin, Dominator and ATA all use different rolling codes. Confirm the box includes mounting screws and anchors; if not, stainless 10 g screws are a $4 add-on. Expect to pay $70–$120 from reputable garage door parts NZ suppliers, and programming generally takes under five key presses.
3. Safety Infra-Red Beams (Photo-Eyes)
These little black “eyes” sit opposite each other near floor level and fire an invisible beam across the opening. Break the beam—by foot, bike or bumper—and the opener must stop and reverse. NZ building regulations now require them on new automatic doors, and most insurance policies look for a working set after an accident claim, so replacing a faulty pair is more than a nice-to-have.
How Safety Beams Prevent Accidents
The emitter sends a pulsing infra-red signal to the receiver; if that link is interrupted for more than 0.05 s, the motor control board cuts power and reverses travel, preventing crushed pets and dinged ute trays.
Common Faults & Diagnostic Tips
Frequent troublemakers include direct sunlight blinding the receiver, bumped brackets knocking alignment out by a few millimetres, or rodents chewing the low-voltage twin-core wire. Most units flash an LED error code—steady green means good, red blink points to misalignment.
Ordering the Right Kit & Installation Hints
Check the opener’s manual for beam voltage—12 V or 24 V DC are standard. Choose brackets that match your track style and allow micro-adjustment. Expect to pay $55–$110 delivered; run a string line between housings for perfect alignment before tightening screws.
4. Wall-Mount Push Buttons & Multifunction Consoles
When the remote isn’t handy, the hard-wired wall station becomes your daily workhorse. A cracked membrane or sticky microswitch is reason enough to swap it out, and the job is usually quicker than changing a light switch.
Single Push Button vs LCD Console
A plain momentary button simply opens or shuts the door—perfect for farm sheds and minimalist setups. LCD or touchscreen consoles add extras such as vacation lock, courtesy-light control and service cycle read-outs, giving you more data without opening the motor cover.
Wiring & Voltage Check Before Purchase
Most units use low-voltage bell wire running 12–24 V DC. Match the connector style—screw terminals or modular plug—to avoid cutting factory looms, and verify polarity if your opener manual calls it out.
Pricing & Quick-Fit Guide
Expect $25–$85 from reputable garage door parts NZ suppliers. Kill mains power, label the two control wires, unscrew old station, fit new one, and you’re back in business in under ten minutes.
5. Complete Garage Door Opener Motor Units
Sometimes the smartest fix is ditching the wheezy relic bolted to the ceiling and starting fresh. Modern openers are quieter, sip less power on standby, and pack soft-start electronics that treat your door hardware gently. Swapping the whole unit is still a DIY-possible job for two people with a ladder and socket set.
When It’s Time to Replace the Whole Motor
- Circuit board fried beyond repair
- Plastic drive gear stripped, metal shavings in cover
- Door hesitates or stalls even after spring balance check
- Manufacturer no longer supports parts or remotes
Chain, Belt or Direct Drive?
- Chain drive: cheapest, shrugs off temperature swings, a bit clanky
- Belt drive: rubber-Kevlar belt cuts noise—ideal for bedrooms above garage
- Direct/shaft drive: motor on door axle, minimal parts, great for low headroom
Match lifting capacity to door size—≤14 m² single, ≤18 m² double for most 600 N DC units.
What to Expect in the Box & Budget Range
You’ll receive the motor head, sectional rail in 3–5 click-together pieces, manual release rope, door bracket, two pre-programmed remotes and a mounting pack. Prices run $420–$950 couriered nationwide; note rural delivery can add a $15 oversized surcharge. Allow two hours install time including travel-limit setup.
6. Opener Drive Belts & Chains
Belt or chain links the opener to the trolley. When it stretches or rusts the motor strains and soon quits. Swapping it is a simple DIY.
Tell-Tale Signs of Wear
Slack hanging below the rail, jerky starts, metallic slap, or visible cracks in the rubber cogs all point to a belt/chain reaching retirement.
Measuring Length & Tooth Pitch
Unplug the opener, pull the red release, and run the trolley to the door end. Measure rail length, count sprocket teeth, and note stamped pitch—8 mm or 9 mm are common on NZ units.
Cost & Fitting Tips
Expect belts at $60–$120 and chains at $45–$90 delivered from garage door parts NZ retailers. Fit new tensioner nuts finger-tight, then add half-turn; overtightening screams and shortens motor life.
7. Sectional Door Torsion Springs
Hidden above the lintel, a pair of torsion springs does the heavy lifting every time you hit the remote. If one snaps the opener can’t budge the door and—worse—the remaining spring may follow suit without warning, so prompt replacement is essential.
The Physics Behind Torsion Springs
Each spring stores energy by twisting around a steel shaft. As the door closes, it winds up; when the door opens, that stored torque counterbalances anything up to 140 kg, letting a modest 600 N motor glide the panels overhead. Springs are handed—left and right wind—so swapping positions will jam the shaft.
Safety First: Sizing & Cycle Rating
Measure three things with the door fully down: inside diameter, wire gauge (use a vernier on ten coils, then divide), and relaxed spring length. Match those numbers to the manufacturer’s chart and choose at least a 20 000-cycle rating to combat New Zealand’s salt-laden air and humidity.
Ordering & Installation Warnings
A matched pair costs roughly $180–$260 delivered in a cardboard tube from most garage door parts NZ suppliers. Replacement is a two-person job: unplug opener, clamp door shut, use purpose-made 12 mm winding bars, and always wear safety glasses. After tensioning, test balance—the door should float waist-high without motor help.
8. Tilt Door Extension Springs
Swing-up tilt doors from the 60s–90s use side-mounted extension springs. When they sag the door can slam shut and the opener strains, so timely replacement is essential.
Unique Needs of NZ Tilt/Up-and-Over Doors
Each spring lifts half the door and pushes it outward in an arc. Uneven tension skews the panel and chews out the side guides quickly.
Selecting Correct Spring Strength
Weigh the propped-open door with bathroom scales, then match that number to the colour band: yellow ≈ 45 kg, blue ≈ 55 kg, red ≈ 65 kg. Order the matched pair for reliable balance.
Price & Replacement Difficulty
Expect $90–$140 delivered from trusted garage door parts NZ suppliers. DIY-friendly: raise the door fully, clamp it, pry old springs off eye-bolts, fit new ones, then test balance before reconnecting the motor.
9. Roller Door Counterbalance Springs (Drum-Internal)
Most corrugated roller doors in New Zealand rely on a single torsion spring coiled inside the steel axle tube, invisible unless you pull the drum apart. When fatigue or rust steals its torque the curtain feels twice as heavy, drops too fast and can damage the nylon guides every time it slams shut.
How They Differ from Torsion & Extension Types
Because the spring sits inside the drum, all tensioning is done with a ratchet wrench on the end hub—not with exposed winding bars. This sealed design keeps grit out and suits the narrow headroom of farm sheds and storage units but makes correct sizing critical.
Measuring Spring Size
With the door fully down, measure axle outside diameter, drum length and curtain height, then cross-reference the manufacturer’s chart. If the tag is missing, quote the door’s brand and opening size to the parts shop; most keep lookup tables for Dominator, Garador and Windsor models.
Typical Costs & Courier Limitations
Expect to pay $110–$180. Springs ship inside a rigid cardboard tube roughly 2 m long; rural couriers may add an oversized fee, so consider depot pickup to save $20. Install requires two people—one to hold the curtain, the other to wind the ratchet eight to ten turns until smooth lift is restored.
10. Lift Cables & Drum Sets
Lift cables bear the door’s mass, looping round drums to raise it evenly. One broken strand can drop the panels and twist tracks, so most garage door parts NZ shops bundle new cables and drums together for quick, cheap shipping.
Why Cables Fail
Rust, misaligned drums or burrs on track edges chew the braid until it frays; ignore that and it will snap.
Choosing the Right Cable Material & Length
Galvanised suits inland garages; go stainless near the coast. Measure axle-centre to floor and add two drum wraps (≈250 mm) so the cable stays seated when the door is open.
Cost & Safe Replacement Steps
Expect $45–$80 for a pair of drums and pre-swaged cables. Clamp the door down, release spring tension first, swap both cables, rewind torsion springs, then test balance before reconnecting the opener.
11. Nylon & Steel Door Rollers
Rollers are the little wheels that let each panel glide; worn ones squeal, stick and shred hinges.
Benefits of Upgrading to Sealed-Bearing Nylon
Upgrading from open-bearing steel to sealed nylon rollers cuts noise by about 70 %, resists coastal rust and ends messy annual greasing.
Stem Length & Wheel Diameter Sizing
Remove one roller and measure stem length tip-to-face, then wheel diameter—41 mm suits sectional tracks, 25 mm fits corrugated roller doors. Confirm straight or shouldered shank.
Price & Simple Swap-Out Process
At $6–$12 each, a 10-pack ships cheaply from garage door parts NZ stores. Swap them: loosen hinge bolts, tilt panel, slide out old, click in new, retighten.
12. Hinges (Numbers 1, 2, 3 & Centre)
Sectional doors rely on a ladder of hinges to flex each panel through the curve of the tracks. When one bends or cracks, the whole door can bind, chew rollers or throw the cable—damage that costs far more than a quick hinge swap.
Why Numbered Hinges Matter
The stamped number (1 at the bottom up to 3 or 4 near the top) indicates the offset between the roller hole and panel face. Get it wrong and the panels won’t nest properly, causing daylight gaps or scrapes on the vertical track during travel.
Gauge & Material Options
Standard 2 mm zinc-plated steel suits most suburban garages; step up to 2.5 mm heavy-duty or marine-grade stainless in coastal regions like Tauranga or Bluff. Heavier gauge reduces flex and extends opener life because the door stays square under load.
Cost & Pro-Tip for Bulk Buying
Singles run $8–$14, but multi-packs from leading garage door parts NZ suppliers drop the unit price below $6. Replace the full set in one go to ensure consistent offsets and avoid chasing new squeaks every few months.
13. Bottom Rail Weather Seal
If the garage floods in a decent Dunedin southerly, the rubber strip under the door is probably toast. Swapping it is one of the cheapest jobs on any maintenance list and can be done without removing the door from its tracks.
Function & Common Deterioration Signs
The seal presses against the floor to block wind-blown rain, dust and mice. UV, tyre friction and mould gradually turn it brittle. Tell-tale clues are daylight peeking under the panels or a crunchy “snap” sound when you close the door.
Measuring Width & “T” or “Bead” Style
Pull 100 mm of the old seal from the aluminium retainer and measure the slot width—commonly 6 mm or 8 mm. Match the profile: a round “bead” edge for older tilt doors or the flat “T” edge used on most modern sectional models.
Price & Quick DIY Fit
Expect $35–$75 for a 3 m roll from leading garage door parts NZ suppliers. Warm the new rubber in hot water, spray the retainer with silicone, and feed it through in five minutes flat.
14. Side Jamb Brush or Rubber Seals
Side jamb seals close the gap between door edge and frame, blocking wind-blown rain, dust and insects that slip past the bottom seal. Replacing them is a straightforward DIY that immediately tightens the opening.
Added Draft Protection
Brush bristles flex with door travel, perfect for windy regions; rubber blades press tighter and work better against driving rain.
Selecting Bristle Length & Carrier Material
Measure the daylight gap: 25 mm bristles fit most doors, 35 mm for wider spaces. Aluminium carriers resist rust; PVC is lighter but can warp in strong sun.
Cost & Installation Advice
Budget $40–$90 per door. Trim carriers 5 mm shy of the floor, pre-drill at 300 mm centres, and let brushes just kiss the panel for low friction.
15. Locking T-Handles
A mechanical T-handle is still the cheapest insurance against power cuts, flat opener batteries and smash-and-grab thieves.
When a Manual Lock Still Matters
Insurers also like a manual lock on detached garages, and it lets you secure the door while servicing the motor.
Shaft Length & Square Size Guide
Measure door thickness: 55 mm shafts fit cedar tilt doors, 75 mm for insulated panels. Most NZ doors use an 8 mm square spindle—confirm before you buy.
Price & Fitting Steps
Expect $30–$55 delivered from garage door parts NZ suppliers. Replace in minutes—remove two bolts, slide out the old handle, pop the new one in, then reseal with silicone. </final_h2_section
16. Centre Latch & Cable Kits
If your sectional or tilt door still relies on a manual lock, the centre latch is the heart of the system. A worn pawl or stretched cables can leave the door half-latched—easy pickings for thieves and a nightmare for the opener’s torque sensor. Swapping the full latch and cable kit restores positive locking and keeps the motor happy.
Purpose & Components
A typical kit bundles:
- Zinc die-cast latch body with spring-loaded pawl
- Two pre-swaged 2 mm galvanised cables
- Side catch keepers and mounting screws
Pulling the internal handle retracts both cables, releasing the side catches so the door can swing or roll.
Buying Compatible Kits
Match the latch faceplate and bolt spacing to your door brand—Dominion, Glideaway and Garador each drill different hole centres. Cable length is door-height specific; check the chart in the product listing or measure existing cables from eyelet to ferrule.
Cost & Adjustment Tips
Expect $45–$70 from reputable garage door parts NZ suppliers. After bolting the latch, hook cables to side catches, then tension until both draws release simultaneously; unequal tension skews panels and stresses hinges. Finally, test by locking and unlocking five times before reconnecting the opener.
17. Horizontal & Vertical Track Brackets
Track brackets are the small steel angles bolted to wall and ceiling that hold the C-shaped tracks rigid. When one twists or rusts out, rollers bind and motors overload.
Roles in Door Alignment
Horizontal brackets square the door at the jamb; vertical hangers stop mid-span sag and scraping.
Gauge, Angle & Hole Pattern Selection
Most Kiwi doors use 2 mm galvanised steel; choose 304 stainless near surf. Check slotted 40 mm centres match existing framing before ordering.
Cost & Replace-While Door is Down
Expect $20–$35 each. Door closed, clamp rollers, undo two coach screws, swap bracket, re-tighten: five-minute, zero-tension repair.
18. Struts & Brace Bars
Sectional panels wider than 2.8 m can flex under their own weight, especially after you convert the door to automatic. A horizontal strut stiffens the sheet steel, keeps mid-span seams straight and stops the top panel bowing when the opener tugs on it. Ignore a sag and you risk cracked paint, noisy travel and premature hinge failure.
Why Add or Replace a Strut
Fitting a new motor, upsizing to insulated panels, or hearing a loud “pop” when the door hits the curve are all signs you need extra bracing. On coastal garages, rust inside the C-channel is another cue to swap the bar before it snaps.
Measuring & Choosing Correct Length
Measure clear door width and subtract about 100 mm so the bar sits inside the jamb seals. Online listings show single-piece options up to 3 m; longer spans ship as two interlocking halves to dodge courier length surcharges. Choose 1.0 mm galvanised for singles, 1.2 mm for double doors.
Cost & Installation
Budget $60–$120 delivered from leading garage door parts NZ retailers. Position the strut crown upward, drill 4 mm pilot holes through existing panel flanges and secure with self-drilling Tek screws at 300 mm centres. A straightedge should now show the panel perfectly flat.
19. Emergency Release Cords & Handles
Even the flashiest opener is useless during a blackout or motor fault unless you can decouple it from the door. That’s the job of the red emergency cord: yank it and the trolley disengages so you can lift the door by hand—something the NZ building code requires when no other exit exists.
Importance for Safety & Compliance
Gives a fail-safe exit in fires or power cuts and satisfies insurers who check for a functional manual override on auto-only garages.
Selecting Durable Cord & Glow-in-the-Dark Handles
Go for 3 mm UV-stable braided nylon rated to 200 kg. Bright red or phosphorescent handles are easiest to spot in smoke or darkness.
Price & Quick Retrofit
At $12–$25 from garage door parts NZ suppliers, it’s a ten-minute DIY: pull old knot, thread new cord through the release lever, tie a figure-eight knot, and test the disengage before restoring power.
20. Opener Battery Back-Up Packs
When the power’s out you can still drive in, keep the rain off the ute and shut the place tight—provided your opener has a charged battery pack clipped on.
How Backup Power Protects Convenience
The sealed lead-acid or lithium module automatically takes over during an outage, giving 10–15 full cycles so you’re not stuck outside or forced to haul the door manually. It also keeps the courtesy light and safety beams alive, preventing accidental damage while you shuffle vehicles around in the dark.
Compatibility & Amp-Hour Capacity
Packs are brand-specific—Merlin/MyQ and LiftMaster use a 12 V, 7 Ah plug-in brick; ATA and Guardian sell slim 24 V sticks. Check your motor’s accessory port and mounting bracket pattern before ordering.
Cost & Simple Plug-In Setup
Budget $110–$190 delivered from reputable garage door parts NZ suppliers. Installation is tool-free: slide the pack into its cradle, connect the two-pin lead, let it charge for 24 hours, then test a door run with the mains unplugged. Expect replacement every three to five years.
Ready to Order Your Parts?
Ticked off a few suspects on the checklist above? Once you’ve confirmed the measurements, hand side and model codes, there’s no need to wait for a trades-van. Ordering online puts trade-price gear on the courier today, so the fix can happen tomorrow—often for less than you’d pay in fuel and call-out fees. You stay in control of the schedule, learn a new skill, and keep the warranty intact because the parts are genuine and sized for New Zealand doors.
Grab your tape measure, snap a photo of the motor label, then jump over to the DoorsNZ parts catalogue. Everything listed is stocked locally and ready for nationwide delivery—DIY confidence starts with the right part in the box.