Garage Door Weather Seal: NZ Guide to Buying & Installation
A garage door weather seal is a simple strip of rubber, PVC or brush that presses against the floor or frame of your door, shutting out wind-blown rain, dust, leaves and the odd wētā. In New Zealand you can pick up a quality replacement seal for between $30 and $120, and with nothing more than a tape-measure, screwdriver and an hour of spare time most homeowners can swap it in themselves.
This guide runs through why sealing matters in our jumpy weather, the different profiles sold locally, how to measure, buy and fit the right one, and the checks that keep it doing its job for years. Follow along and you’ll have a dry, tidy garage without emptying the wallet.
The benefits of sealing your garage door in New Zealand conditions
Spend a few dollars on a new seal and you’ll bank multiple returns—especially in a country where four seasons often turn up before lunch.
Keep weather and moisture out
Average annual rainfall tops 1 200 mm nationwide; a snug bulb keeps coastal spray and Whanganui downpours from rusting bikes and growing mould.
Cut draughts and lower energy bills
With most Kiwi garages opening into living areas, plugging a 5 mm gap trims heater run-time and can shave 10 % off winter power.
Block pests, leaves and dust
Rodents, wētā and pohutukawa leaves ride spring gales; sealing the threshold stops the lot before they camp in your stored linen.
Noise and light reduction benefits
A continuous vinyl flap dulls tyre hum and blocks sunrise glare, turning the garage into a calmer workshop or home gym.
Quick DIY win and resale value
Buyers tick “dry storage” fast; a $60 seal shows the home has been cared for and may lift offers thousands.
Comparing the common weather seal options
Not every gap-stopper is created equal. Price, durability and how tidy your floor is all influence which garage door weather seal will do the best job. The four solutions below cover almost every Kiwi set-up.
Bottom bulb and T-end rubber seals
Most popular on roller and sectional doors. A soft EPDM or neoprene bulb slides into 5 mm, 7 mm or 9 mm T-slots in the door’s aluminium track.
- Cheapest option ($7–$15 / m)
- Compresses well on flat concrete
- Quick DIY swap with no adhesives
- Won’t bridge dips or cracks in the slab
PVC or aluminium threshold seals (stick-down ramps)
A rigid strip that bonds to the floor, creating a water dam. Perfect for garages that slope to the street. Kits include polymer adhesive rated to 2 500 kg axle loads. Once glued it’s permanent, so mark carefully before committing.
Side and top brush or vinyl stop moulds
An L-shaped carrier screws to the jambs and header. Choose:
- Nylon brush – survives high wind, minor mis-alignment
- Flexible vinyl flap – tighter light seal but shorter life
Great for tilt doors or when daylight shows around the frame.
Brush seals for industrial roller shutters
Galvanised steel holder plus 50–75 mm polypropylene bristles built to shrug off forklifts and 30 000+ open/close cycles. Overkill for most homes, but gold for workshops and farm sheds.
Material comparison and lifespan
| Material | UV resistance | Temp range (°C) | Expected life |
|---|---|---|---|
| EPDM rubber | Excellent | ‑40 to 120 | 8–10 yrs |
| Neoprene | Good | ‑30 to 100 | 5–7 yrs |
| PVC | Fair | ‑10 to 70 | 3–5 yrs |
| Nylon brush | Excellent | ‑40 to 90 | 8–12 yrs |
Choose the blend that matches your climate, budget and how often the door moves.
Selecting the correct seal for your door and floor
Choose poorly and leaks linger. Spend two minutes on door style, gap size, and exposure so the strip you order kisses the concrete first try.
Identify your door type and track style
Roller doors hold twin T-slots in a hollow bottom rail; sectional panels have one, while tilt doors take face-mounted strips. Snap a photo if unsure—suppliers identify the profile instantly.
Measure the gap and floor levelness
Shut the door, slide a 12 mm timber off-cut under the curtain and mark any daylight. A straightedge or laser level spots humps or channels that could warrant a threshold ramp.
Consider NZ wind zone and exposure
Very High zones can blow 150 km/h gusts under a roller. Upgrade to a 10 mm bulb or add side brushes to stop lift if you’re near Cook Strait or Manukau Heads.
Match seal size to aluminium channel
Measure slot width with calipers or a drill bit; 5 mm, 7 mm and 9 mm are common. If the track is crimped or rusty, replace it before feeding the new seal.
Budget vs performance trade-offs
A PVC sleeve keeps leaves out for $30 but may shrink within three summers. Spend $80 on UV-stable EPDM and you’ll forget the strip until the opener needs service.
Planning and measuring before you buy
Accurate dimensions—and a quick health check of the door bottom rail—mean the new garage door weather seal will slide in first go. Grab a notepad, clear the threshold of clutter, and work through the mini-audit below before opening the wallet.
Tools and safety gear checklist
- 5 m tape-measure
- Carpenter’s square or straightedge
- Pencil or low-tack masking tape for marks
- Flat-blade screwdriver or pliers (to pry out staples and track crimps)
- Sharp utility knife or tin snips
- Drill/driver with 3 mm bit for pilot holes
- Safety glasses and a pair of work gloves
Accurate width and length measurement
Measure the daylight opening at floor level, then the full curtain width—often 10–20 mm wider. Add 50–75 mm to that figure so you can trim flush once the bulb is fully seated in the track.
Checking track for burrs and corrosion
Run your fingertip along the aluminium slot; any sharp burr will shred a new seal. Lightly file or sand, then wipe away swarf and surface rust.
Ordering tips for online purchases
Some suppliers quote in inches or sell fixed 3.2 m kits. Convert (mm ÷ 25.4) and round up; excess off-cut is cheaper than re-shipping.
Preparing the garage floor
For threshold ramps, degrease concrete with sugar soap, rinse, and let it dry 24 h. Adhesive sticks only to squeaky-clean, moisture-free slabs.
DIY installation: tools, safety and step-by-step instructions
Swapping a tired, cracked strip for a fresh garage door weather seal is a doable afternoon project. Clear a workspace, have the new profile cut to length, and follow the stages below. Work methodically—rushing usually ends in a kinked bulb or smeared adhesive.
Removing the old seal safely
- Unplug the opener or pull the manual release cord.
- Wedge a scrap block under a sectional door panel so nothing drops on your fingers.
- Use pliers or a flat screwdriver to open the crimp at each end of the aluminium track, then slide the brittle seal out.
- Sweep away grit and give the channel a quick wipe with methylated spirits.
Cutting and pre-feeding the new bottom seal
- Measure twice, cut once—leave 50 mm spare.
- Fold the bulb into a tight “U” so both T-ends start together; this halves feeding time.
- Dust the slot with a pinch of talc or silicone-free spray and pull the seal through while a helper guides the free end.
- Trim flush and re-crimp the rail with multigrips.
Installing a stick-down threshold ramp
- With the door shut, dry-fit the ramp against the seal, then mark the outline on the slab.
- Raise the door, apply the supplied adhesive in a zig-zag bead (
⌀ 8 mm). - Press the ramp into place, weight it with paint tins and leave it undisturbed for 24 h.
Fitting side/top weather strips
- Hold the L-shaped carrier so the flap or brush kisses the closed door with 2 mm compression.
- Drill 3 mm pilots and fix with 40 mm galvanised screws every 200 mm.
- Mitre the top corners for a neat seal all the way round.
Final checks and water test
Close the door, kill the lights and shine a torch from outside—any glow means adjustment. Finish by hosing the bottom for two minutes; if no drips appear inside, the garage is officially weather-tight.
Care, lifespan and troubleshooting
Look after the seal and it will look after your garage. A quick clean every few months and the odd tweak will stretch a garage door weather seal’s life from “average” to “excellent”.
Routine inspection and cleaning schedule
Quarterly: close the door, run your hand along the bulb or brush checking for nicks, flattening or grit. Wipe with warm water + mild detergent, rinse, and dry. Skip solvent or petroleum cleaners—they swell rubber.
Common problems and quick fixes
- Seal bunches at one end: loosen track crimp, pull tension, re-crimp.
- Shrinkage leaving daylight: add 50 mm extension piece or refit full length.
- Rodent chew marks: patch with silicone until replacement arrives.
Dealing with persistent leaks on uneven concrete
For dips under 5 mm, lay a bead of flexible concrete caulk under the bulb. Bigger hollows need a stick-down threshold ramp or light grind with a masonry cup wheel.
When to replace vs repair
If the rubber shows cracks wider than 1 mm, feels brittle, or no longer rebounds when pressed, swap it out. In NZ UV conditions expect 5–8 years for PVC, up to 10 years for EPDM.
Where to buy garage door weather seals in NZ and what they cost
Whether you like hands-on aisle browsing or click-and-collect ease, there’s no shortage of places to grab a new garage door weather seal in Aotearoa.
Big-box hardware stores
Bunnings and Mitre 10 keep Raven, Cowdroy and own-brand strips on the shelf. Expect instant pickup and weekend specials, yet profile choice is often limited to 5 mm or 7 mm T-slots.
Specialist online suppliers and manufacturers
Dedicated sites such as DoorsNZ carry the full spread of 5–9 mm bulbs, commercial brushes and threshold kits, all NZ-made and couriered nationwide—handy if you need an odd length or technical backup.
Online marketplaces and imports
Trade Me, Amazon AU/NZ and eBay list bulk rolls and niche profiles, sometimes cheaper. Factor freight, GST on imports and the hassle of returning mis-sized parts.
Typical cost breakdown
| Item | Typical price (NZ$) |
|---|---|
| Bottom bulb seal (per metre) | 7 – 15 |
| Full 3.2 m DIY kit (seal + ends) | 40 – 65 |
| Floor threshold ramp (adhesive) | 85 – 120 |
| Side/top brush or vinyl kit | 55 – 95 |
| Installer labour (call-out + hr) | 70 + 60/hr |
Deciding between DIY and professional installation
If you can measure accurately and wield a screwdriver, DIY saves roughly half the outlay; hire a tech when ladder work or warranty paperwork worries you.
Weatherproofing your garage made simple
Seal choice, good measurements, and a steady hour on the tools—that’s really all it takes to turn a damp, draughty garage into a dry, clean space. Pick the profile that matches your door and floor, measure twice before ordering, then install slowly so the bulb or brush sits flat and even. Finish with a quick torch-and-hose test and add a five-minute wash to your quarterly chore list. Do that and a quality EPDM or brush strip will shrug off Kiwi sun, salt and southerlies for the next decade.
Ready to close those gaps? Grab NZ-made garage door weather seals, cut to the length you need and shipped nationwide, from DoorsNZ today.