DIY Garage Storage Ideas: 13 Budget Projects for NZ Homes

If your garage has become the household dumping ground — bikes teetering on kickstands, ladders blocking the mower, bins stacked three-high and still impossible to reach — you’re not alone. Kiwi garages work hard: they’re workshops, gear lockers and weather buffers, often in tight single-bay spaces. But when the ceiling is cluttered with tracks and swing doors, and the walls are a patchwork of random hooks, even finding a screwdriver can be a mission. You need practical, low-cost DIY garage storage ideas that suit NZ homes, materials and weather — and won’t swallow your weekend or your budget.

This guide gives you 13 budget-friendly projects you can build with basic tools and off‑the‑shelf supplies from places like Mitre 10 and Bunnings — all in metric, with realistic NZ cost and time notes, plus safety and load tips. We’ll start by freeing up overhead space with a roller door (so your ceiling can finally earn its keep), then add smart, modular storage: a plywood French cleat wall, ceiling bin rails, bike hoists or sliding rails, a long‑handled tool rack, stackable bin towers, pegboard workbench with magnetic strips, PVC fishing rod organiser, a ladder ceiling cradle, a bungee ball corral, wire shelves between joists, a rolling workbench, and under‑shelf jar storage for small parts. Ready to reclaim the garage and still park the car? Let’s get started.

1. Free up overhead space with a roller door (DoorsNZ)

If a tilt or sectional door eats up your ceiling with tracks and arms, you’ve already lost the best storage real estate in the garage. Swapping to a compact roller door clears that overhead zone so you can add DIY garage storage ideas like ceiling bin rails, bike hoists and ladder cradles. DoorsNZ supplies custom‑made NZ‑manufactured roller doors in Coloursteel or Zincalume, shipped nationwide with optional installation, so you can reclaim that space without blowing the budget.

What you’ll do

You’ll assess your opening, measure accurately, and replace your existing door with a space‑saving roller door so the ceiling is free for storage. Order a custom door online, then either book a pro install or proceed only if you’re confident and competent with door installs.

• Outcome: A neat, overhead‑clear garage opening ready for ceiling storage projects.

Tools and materials

For site measuring and basic prep; installation tooling varies by site and installer.

• Tape measure, level and straightedge: For true measurements and checks.
• Ladder and PPE (gloves, eye protection): Safe access and handling.
• Drill/driver and appropriate fixings: Timber or masonry as your jambs require.
• Sealant/packers: To plumb and seal the opening.
• Optional accessories from DoorsNZ: Automatic opener, safety beams, locks, bird‑proofing brushes, remotes.

Steps at a glance

Start with planning and measuring before you order. If replacing a door, plan for removal and safe disposal.

1. Inspect the opening; note headroom and side room, and any services near the lintel.
2. Measure daylight width/height and reveal depths accurately.
3. Choose finish (NZ‑made Coloursteel or Zincalume) and accessories.
4. Order your custom roller door from DoorsNZ and schedule installation.
5. Prepare the opening (plumb, level, solid fixings), then install per manufacturer instructions.
6. Fit opener and safety beams if specified, test operation, and seal trims.
7. Keep the ceiling zone clear and ready for overhead storage projects.

Cost and time in NZ

DoorsNZ’s online, low‑overhead model is designed to keep pricing competitive on NZ‑made custom doors. Shipping is free to the North Island, with subsidised delivery to a Christchurch warehouse for pick‑up, and additional door‑to‑door options to Dunedin, Southland and Nelson. Installation duration varies by site; many homeowners opt for a professional install for speed and safety.

Safety and load notes

A roller door contains heavy components and spring tension—improper handling can cause injury. If in doubt, book installation. Always add safety beams when using an automatic opener, and keep stored items clear of the curtain path and side guides. After install, set a no‑load buffer around the opening so bikes, bins and overhead shelves can’t foul the moving door.

2. Build a French cleat storage wall with 18 mm plywood

If you want adaptable storage that grows with your projects, a French cleat wall is a winner. By fixing bevelled plywood rails to your studs, you can hang shelves, bins, tool holders and even small cabinets that lift off and move in seconds. It’s sturdy, simple, and ideal for NZ garages where every metre counts.

What you’ll do

You’ll rip 18 mm plywood into strips, bevel them at 45° to form interlocking cleats, fix horizontal rails into wall studs, then make simple holders with matching cleats so you can rearrange storage anytime.

• Outcome: A modular, heavy‑duty storage wall that keeps tools visible and off the floor.

Tools and materials

Set yourself up safely, then keep cuts accurate and fixings solid.

• Tools: Circular saw or table saw (set to 45°), straightedge/track, drill/driver, stud finder, level, tape, pencil, clamps, sander, PPE.
• Materials: 18 mm plywood (rails and holders), timber screws appropriate to your studs, wall plugs/anchors for masonry if needed, wood glue, sandpaper, finish (paint/oil) optional.

Steps at a glance

Start with the wall layout and stud marks; accuracy here makes everything easier.

1. Map and mark studs; snap a level line for your first cleat.
2. Rip plywood into cleat strips (common widths 80–120 mm); set blade to 45° and bevel the long edge.
3. Lightly sand; pre‑drill and countersink fixing holes.
4. Fix the first rail level into studs; add additional rails in courses down/up the wall with consistent spacing.
5. Make holders: cut shelves, trays or tool panels; glue/screw a mating cleat to the back so the bevel faces down to hook.
6. Hang, test, then shuffle components until your zones feel right.

Cost and time in NZ

Expect a weekend‑friendly build: a morning to cut/sand rails, an afternoon to mount and make a starter set of holders. Total cost depends on how many sheets you use and your fixings/finish; check local pricing at Mitre 10 or Bunnings and buy once you’ve measured your wall and planned rail spacing.

Safety and load notes

French cleats are only as strong as their fixings and substrate. Always fix rails into studs (or use appropriate masonry anchors), keep the bevel pointing down, and position heavy items on lower rows. Don’t rely on plasterboard alone. Re‑check screws seasonally, and keep clear of door travel paths and electrical services when drilling.

3. Install ceiling bin rails for lidded totes

Clear floors fast by moving seasonal gear into the “dead” space under the ceiling. This simple rail system lets the lips of standard lidded totes slide into timber runners so bins park safely overhead. It pairs perfectly with a roller door because there are no tracks in the way—prime territory for DIY garage storage ideas that actually work.

What you’ll do

You’ll fix parallel timber rails to the ceiling framing, spaced so the tote lips glide between them. The bins slide in and out like drawers, freeing floor and wall space.

• Outcome: Overhead storage for light to medium-weight, rarely used items.

Tools and materials

Set up for accurate marking and solid fixings into joists.

• Tools: Stud/joist finder, tape, pencil, ladder, level, drill/driver, countersink bit, PPE.
• Timber rails: Approx. 45 × 45 mm battens (primary rails) and 90 × 19 mm slats (keepers).
• Fixings: Structural wood screws sized to penetrate joists; washers if needed.
• Totes: Lidded plastic bins with a pronounced rim/lip (all the same size for consistency).

Steps at a glance

Mark joists first, then let your bins set the spacing.

1. Locate and snap lines along ceiling joists; check the garage door path and opener clearance.
2. Use a tote as a spacer to mark rail positions—rails should just “brush” the bin lips.
3. Pre‑drill battens; screw them to joists at regular intervals (about 600 mm centres), keeping rails dead parallel.
4. Add 90 × 19 mm keepers centred on the battens to create a smooth bearing surface.
5. Test-fit an empty bin; adjust if needed, then load a single bin and re‑check before filling more.

Cost and time in NZ

This is an afternoon build with basic timber and screws. Costs depend on the number of rails and bin count; price your timber and matching totes at Mitre 10/Bunnings, and buy all bins in one go to ensure identical rims and fit.

Safety and load notes

Fix into joists only—never into plasterboard. Keep individual bin loads light; store bulky but lighter items (camping gear, decorations). Space screws regularly (about 600 mm) and use long structural screws. Maintain clearance from the roller door curtain, opener, lights and the car roof. Don’t store liquids or heavy tools overhead, and only lift what you can control safely at shoulder height or lower.

4. Hang bikes with a pulley hoist or sliding rail system

Bikes chew through precious floor space; getting them overhead gives you instant room to move and still keeps rides accessible. Two proven approaches for NZ garages are a simple ceiling pulley hoist (great above a bonnet) and a sliding rail system that nests bikes closer together under the ceiling—both are smart DIY garage storage ideas once your overhead is clear.

What you’ll do

You’ll choose a hoist for vertical lift or a rail that lets bikes glide sideways near the wall. You’ll locate ceiling joists, fix the hardware securely, then position hooks so handlebars and pedals don’t clash.

• Outcome: Secure, overhead bike parking with safe clearances for cars and the garage door.

Tools and materials

Gather everything before you climb the ladder; fixings must suit timber framing or masonry.

• Tools: Stud/joist finder, ladder, tape/level, drill/driver, sockets/spanners, pencil, PPE.
• Pulley hoist (per bike): Double‑pulley hoist kit with locking cleat, 6–8 mm rope, rubber‑coated hooks, suitable coach screws.
• Sliding rail (2–4 bikes): Steel/aluminium track or angle, rolling trolleys/hangers, bike hooks, optional timber ledger to span joists, structural screws/bolts and appropriate anchors.
• Extras: Frame/handlebar protectors, cord cleats, cable ties for rope management.

Steps at a glance

Mark clearances first: door travel, opener, lights, and your car’s roofline.

1. Pulley hoist
   1. Find two joists; mark hook centres to suit bike wheelbase.
   2. Pre‑drill and fix pulleys into joists; mount wall cleat at shoulder height.
   3. Thread rope, test with an empty hook, then lift the bike and tie off.
2. Sliding rail
   1. Fix a ledger across joists (or mount track directly) keeping it level.
   2. Install trolleys/hooks; stagger hook heights so bars/pedals miss.
   3. Hang bikes and slide them tight to the wall; fine‑tune spacing.

Cost and time in NZ

A single hoist is a quick, budget install; a 3–4 bike sliding rail is an afternoon project. Track, hoist kits and fixings are readily available—price your preferred option at Mitre 10 or Bunnings and match to how many bikes you need to store.

Safety and load notes

Fix only into joists or approved anchors; never into plasterboard alone. Respect the rated load of the hoist/track and your fixings—e‑bikes are heavier, so check ratings carefully. Keep a clear “drop zone,” tie off to a cleat, and stand to the side when lifting. Maintain safe clearance from the roller door curtain and opener, and inspect ropes, hooks and screws periodically for wear or loosening.

5. Make a long‑handled tool rack from timber and PVC

Leaning rakes and shovels eat floor space and love to topple just as you open the door. Instead of random nails in studs, build a slim wall rack that corrals every long‑handled tool in one tidy bay. This timber backboard with PVC “holsters” is cheap, quick, and easy to shuffle as your kit changes—exactly the kind of DIY garage storage idea that keeps aisles clear.

What you’ll do

You’ll screw a plywood or timber backboard into wall studs, cut short lengths of PVC pipe as individual holders, then add a simple timber keeper strip to stop handles tipping forward. The result is a compact rack that suits brooms, spades, rakes and loppers.

• Outcome: A stable, wall‑mounted rack for 8–12 long‑handled tools, off the floor and easy to grab.

Tools and materials

Have everything ready before you climb the ladder and mark studs.

• Tools: Drill/driver, stud finder, tape and level, pencil, handsaw or mitre saw, PVC hacksaw, file/sandpaper, PPE.
• Materials: 18 mm plywood or 140–190 mm dressed timber (backboard), 40–60 mm PVC pipe (holsters), exterior wood screws, washers (optional), 45 × 19 mm timber (keeper strip).

Steps at a glance

Mark your stud layout first, then let your tools dictate spacing.

1. Plan and mark: Find studs and sketch a rack width that clears the roller door path and car doors.
2. Fix backboard: Pre‑drill and screw the board level into studs at a comfortable handle height.
3. Cut PVC holsters: Slice 120–150 mm lengths; round and sand edges. Notch the top lip if you want easier drop‑in.
4. Mount holsters: Pre‑drill through PVC and fix to backboard in a straight line, spacing for your fattest handle.
5. Add keeper strip: Screw a timber strip 250–300 mm above the holsters to stop tools tipping; chamfer edges.
6. Load and tweak: Drop tools in, shuffle spacing, and add a second row later if needed.

Cost and time in NZ

This is a one‑to‑two‑hour project, faster if you have ply offcuts. PVC, screws and a length of dressed timber are inexpensive; price what you need at Mitre 10 or Bunnings and buy in one run. Using scrap ply can drop the cost further.

Safety and load notes

Mount into studs or masonry with appropriate anchors—plasterboard alone won’t cut it. Smooth all PVC edges to prevent glove or skin snags. Keep blades down and clear of walkways and vehicle doors, and avoid over‑stacking heavy tools on a single fix point. Re‑check screws seasonally and after big temperature swings.

6. Build a vertical stackable bin tower from 2x4s and ply

Stacked bins on the floor are a pain—everything you want is always at the bottom. A vertical bin tower gives each tote its own “bay” so you can pull one out without unstacking the lot. It’s a narrow, freestanding frame that anchors to the wall, perfect beside a door or between studs, and one of the most practical DIY garage storage ideas for seasonal gear and kids’ stuff.

What you’ll do

You’ll build two ladder‑style side frames from 2x4s (approx. 45 × 90 mm) and tie them together with plywood or timber runners, sized to your bins so each shelf captures the tote without lids snagging. Anchor the unit to wall studs to prevent tipping.

• Outcome: A space‑efficient, labelled bin tower where every tote is accessible.

Tools and materials

Get your bin size first, then buy timber to suit. Consistent bin sizes make layout faster and cleaner.

• Tools: Circular/mitre saw, drill/driver, countersink bit, square, tape, level, clamps, stud finder, PPE.
• Timber: 2x4s for uprights and stretchers; 18 mm plywood or 90 × 19 mm slats for runners.
• Fixings: 75–100 mm wood screws for frame, 50–65 mm screws for runners, construction adhesive (optional), masonry anchors if fixing to concrete block.
• Bins: Matching lidded totes (choose one size and stick to it).
• Extras (optional): Labels, edge sanding sealer, rubber feet/packers for slab irregularities.

Steps at a glance

Mark out from your actual bins—aim for a smooth slide with 5–10 mm clearance around lids and handles.

1. Measure bin length, width and height; decide tower height and number of levels (heaviest bins at the bottom).
2. Cut two 2x4 uprights and cross stretchers; assemble ladder‑style side frames square and flush.
3. Stand frames, level and brace; tie together with top/bottom rails.
4. Rip runners from 18 mm ply (or use 90 × 19 slats) and fix pairs left/right at each level to create a shelf that supports the bin rim/base.
5. Test‑fit an empty bin on each level; adjust runner spacing before locking off.
6. Anchor the tower to studs at the top and mid‑height; add labels to each bay.

Cost and time in NZ

With bins purchased up front, expect an afternoon build for a single tower (4–6 bays). Timber and screws are modest; price locally at Mitre 10/Bunnings based on your tower’s height and bin count. Using ply offcuts for runners keeps costs down.

Safety and load notes

Always anchor the tower into wall studs or masonry—freestanding frames can tip. Keep the heaviest, densest items in the lowest bins and lighter, bulky gear higher up. Maintain clearance for car doors and the roller door curtain. Round over shelf edges to protect lids, and avoid storing liquids or very heavy tools at shoulder height. Re‑check fixings seasonally and after big temperature swings.

7. Create a workbench with pegboard and magnetic tool strips

A solid workbench with a pegboard backdrop and magnetic strips turns wasted wall into a compact “grab‑and‑go” zone. Tools are visible, chargers have a home, and quick fixes don’t sprawl across the floor. Once your overhead is clear, this is the anchor project that makes every other DIY garage storage idea easier to pull off.

What you’ll do

You’ll build a sturdy wall‑fixed bench, mount pegboard on spacers so hooks seat properly, then add magnetic tool strips and a shallow shelf for chargers and consumables.

• Outcome: A compact, organised workstation where the tools you use most live within arm’s reach.

Tools and materials

Have everything cut and ready before you start fixing to the wall.

• Tools: Circular or mitre saw, drill/driver, stud finder, level, tape, square, clamps, countersink bit, sander, PPE.
• Timber/board: 2x4s (approx. 45 × 90 mm) for the bench frame; 18 mm plywood for the benchtop and a small upper shelf; 18–19 mm battens/cleats to stand pegboard off the wall.
• Pegboard: Hardboard, plastic or metal panels with standard hook holes.
• Hardware: Wood screws (frame and top), fixings into studs or masonry anchors, angle brackets, construction adhesive (optional).
• Organisers: Magnetic tool strips, pegboard hooks/shelves/bins, cable clips, a switched power board (RCD/overload protected).

Steps at a glance

Mark stud positions, then size the bench to your space and preferred working height.

1. Plan width/depth; snap level lines and mark studs. Keep clear of the roller door path and car doors.
2. Build the bench frame (front/rear rails with legs and stretchers); fix the rear rail into studs; add diagonal bracing if needed.
3. Screw down the 18 mm ply top; sand and seal or oil the surface for durability.
4. Fix horizontal battens to the wall (top, bottom and mid‑height), then mount pegboard panels so there’s a standoff for hooks.
5. Add a shallow upper shelf for chargers; mount magnetic strips where chisels, spanners and screwdrivers sit naturally.
6. Fit hooks, bins and trays; route cables neatly, and label zones so everything goes back in the same spot.

Cost and time in NZ

With timber and a pegboard kit on hand, most DIYers can complete this in a day: morning for the bench, afternoon for pegboard and organisation. Price timber, pegboard and magnetic strips at Mitre 10 or Bunnings; reusing ply offcuts and an existing power board keeps costs down.

Safety and load notes

Fix bench rails and pegboard battens into studs (or use appropriate masonry anchors)—plasterboard alone won’t hold. Keep the heaviest tools on the bench or low hooks; pegboard and magnetic strips have practical limits, so respect the manufacturer’s ratings. Use an RCD‑protected power board, keep solvents and fuels in sealed containers away from ignition sources, and maintain safe clearance from the roller door curtain, opener and vehicle. Re‑check all fixings seasonally.

8. DIY fishing rod organiser using PVC and EVA foam

Fishing rods tangle easily and waste wall space. This quick organiser uses a length of PVC with drilled “cup” holes for butts, and an EVA foam (pool noodle) rail above with slits to lightly grip the blanks. It’s cheap, tidy and keeps rods ready for the next mission to the coast or lake.

What you’ll do

You’ll mount a slit EVA foam “grip” strip across studs, then fix a PVC tube beneath it with evenly spaced holes. Rod butts drop into the PVC; the upper foam holds the rods apart.

• Outcome: A neat, wall‑mounted rack that stores 6–10 rods without tangles.

Tools and materials

Have your layout measured before cutting—consistent spacing keeps rods from clashing.

• Tools: Drill/driver, 25 mm hole saw, utility knife, stud finder, tape, level, pencil, deburring tool/sandpaper, PPE.
• Materials: ~75–80 mm diameter PVC pipe (1–1.5 m), EVA foam pool noodle (or 25–30 mm EVA strip), 50 mm wood screws, large fender washers, wall anchors for masonry if required, packers/shims, optional PVC end caps.

Steps at a glance

Mark studs first (400/600 mm centres typical), then set a comfortable loading height.

1. Offer a rod to the wall; mark upper foam height and lower PVC height (about 350–450 mm apart).
2. On the PVC, mark hole centres at ~100 mm spacing; drill 25 mm holes and deburr.
3. Slice the pool noodle lengthways to create open slits every ~100 mm (align with PVC holes).
4. Fix the foam to studs: open each slit, place a fender washer over the screw and drive 50 mm screws into studs.
5. Level and fix the PVC beneath, screwing through the solid wall of the pipe into studs (avoid drilled faces).
6. Test‑fit rods; adjust spacing if reel seats or guides clash.

Cost and time in NZ

Allow a couple of hours. A length of PVC, a pool noodle/EVA strip and a small box of screws/washers are low‑cost items at Mitre 10 or Bunnings. Using offcuts reduces spend further.

Safety and load notes

Deburr all PVC holes to protect blanks. Fix into studs or suitable masonry anchors—plasterboard alone won’t hold. Keep clear of garage/roller door travel and vehicle doors. Store rods clean and dry; cover hooks/lures before racking. Don’t overload one fixing point; add a second rack if your collection grows.

9. Build a ladder ceiling rack with 2x4 cradles

An extension ladder is awkward to store and a trip hazard on the floor. A simple pair of 2x4 cradles screwed into the ceiling joists creates a slide‑in rack that parks the ladder overhead, out of harm’s way and clear of the roller door path. It’s a fast, low‑cost build that frees wall space for higher‑use gear.

What you’ll do

You’ll make two U‑shaped timber cradles sized to your ladder rails, fix them into ceiling joists, then add a stop block and retaining strap so the ladder can’t creep.

• Outcome: A secure, overhead “parking bay” where the ladder slides in and out easily.

Tools and materials

• Tools: Stud/joist finder, ladder, tape and pencil, level, circular/mitre saw, drill/driver, countersink bit, sander, PPE.
• Timber: 2x4s (approx. 45 × 90 mm) for cradle arms and crosspieces; 45 × 19 mm strip for stop blocks; optional thin rubber/felt to line saddles.
• Fixings: Structural wood screws (90–100 mm) into joists; 50–65 mm screws for blocks; washers if needed.
• Retainer: Hook‑and‑loop or cam strap; or a simple swivelling safety latch.

Steps at a glance

1. Measure ladder rail width and depth; decide rack location with clearances for the roller door curtain/opener and car roof.
2. Locate joists; mark two cradle positions to suit the ladder’s length (typically near each end).
3. Cut cradle arms (2x4) and a crosspiece; screw together to form two U‑shaped saddles. Ease edges and add rubber/felt if desired.
4. Pre‑drill and fix each cradle into joists, keeping them level and parallel.
5. Add a stop block at the “deep” end of one cradle so the ladder cannot overshoot.
6. Test‑fit the ladder, then install a retaining strap/latch at the open end.

Cost and time in NZ

Allow 1–2 hours with offcuts and a box of screws. Two short lengths of 2x4 and basic fixings keep this firmly in the “budget” bracket at Mitre 10 or Bunnings.

Safety and load notes

Fix cradles into joists only—never into plasterboard. Keep at least 50 mm clearance from the roller door and opener, lights and the garage door track. Lift with two people for heavy/long ladders, stand to the side when loading, and secure with a strap. Position the rack outside normal walk paths to protect heads, and re‑check screws seasonally.

10. Make a sports ball corral with bungee cords

Loose balls roll under cars, tip over bins and generally wreak garage chaos. A compact corral keeps everything in one bay, and elastic cords let kids pull a ball from the bottom without unloading the lot. This classic build uses a plywood back and base with vertical battens and elastic “bars” across the front—simple, tidy, and made for grab‑and‑go.

What you’ll do

You’ll build a narrow box frame that fits between studs or beside a door, then thread hookless shock cord across the front so balls are contained but still easy to pull through.

• Outcome: A slim, self‑feeding ball rack that holds rugby, footballs, netballs and basketballs in one place.

Tools and materials

• Tools: Circular/mitre saw, drill/driver, 8–10 mm drill bit, tape, square, sander, pencil, PPE.
• Timber/board: 18 mm plywood (back and base), 45 × 45 mm battens (sides), optional 90 × 19 mm cap.
• Fixings: 50–65 mm wood screws, construction adhesive (optional).
• Cord: 6–8 mm hookless shock cord (elastic bungee) and cord ends; or cut hooks off pre‑made bungees and knot.
• Mounting: Screws/anchors to fix into studs or masonry.

Steps at a glance

1. Mark a footprint (e.g., ~600–800 mm high × 300 mm wide × 300 mm deep) that won’t foul car doors or the roller door path.
2. Cut ply back and base; screw battens down each side to form a shallow box.
3. Fix the unit to wall studs through the back (top and bottom).
4. Mark front hole pairs at even spacing (about 120–150 mm apart); drill holes slightly larger than your cord.
5. Thread shock cord in a zig‑zag across the opening; tension and knot or fit cord ends so balls press the cords but don’t fall through.
6. Test with your largest ball; adjust cord spacing/tension, then sand edges and add a top cap if desired.

Cost and time in NZ

With offcuts and a length of shock cord, this is a 1–2 hour project. Everything—ply, battens, cord and screws—is readily available at Mitre 10 or Bunnings.

Safety and load notes

Fix into studs (or use appropriate masonry anchors). Avoid metal hooks on cords—they’re a snag hazard for kids; use hookless shock cord or cut hooks off and tie stopper knots. Keep the lower cord at least 75–100 mm above the base so balls don’t roll out, and round over all edges. Position the corral clear of vehicle paths and the roller door curtain. Optionally add small trays/hooks on the outside for pumps and cones.

11. Use wire shelving between joists for hidden storage

If your garage has exposed ceiling joists, there’s a goldmine of “out of sight, out of the way” storage up there. Mount short runs of wire shelving between joists and you’ve got slim cubbies for light, awkward gear—tent poles, tarps, wrapping paper tubes, spare towels, and seasonal bits—without stealing wall or floor space. It’s quick, cheap, and pairs perfectly with a roller door because nothing interferes with the curtain.

What you’ll do

You’ll cut wire shelving to fit the gaps between joists and screw it to the joist bottoms using the manufacturer’s clips, lip facing down so items don’t roll out.

• Outcome: Discreet overhead “pigeonholes” for light, infrequently used items.

Tools and materials

Measure first, then cut cleanly and fix with the correct clips for a rattle‑free result.

• Tools: Tape, pencil, ladder, level, drill/driver, tin snips or hacksaw, file/deburring tool, PPE (gloves, eye protection).
• Materials: Wire shelving (approx. 300–400 mm deep), manufacturer end clips and supports, wood screws/washer‑head screws, optional cable ties/end caps, thin ply or corflute liners (optional).

Steps at a glance

Confirm clearances to the roller door, opener and lights before you build.

1. Choose joist bays with easy access; measure inside width between joists.
2. Cut shelving 5–10 mm shorter than the bay; file sharp ends and fit end caps or tape.
3. Orient the front lip down as a stop; hold the shelf level against joist bottoms.
4. Fix end clips to each joist and drive screws; add a centre support if the run exceeds ~600 mm.
5. Test with empty items first; add liners for small bits, and label the bay.

Cost and time in NZ

Plan an hour for two to three bays once you’re set up. Wire shelving and clip packs are off‑the‑shelf at Mitre 10 and Bunnings; buy enough clips for each bearing point and cut all sections in one go to save time.

Safety and load notes

This solution is for light loads only—soft goods, plastic decor, cardboard flats—not liquids or heavy tools. Fix to solid timber, avoid piercing wiring, plumbing or insulation, and keep clear of the roller door curtain and opener. Deburr all cut ends, use end caps, and re‑check screws seasonally or after big temperature swings.

12. Build a rolling workbench with under‑bench crate storage

A mobile bench lets you roll the workspace to the task, then park it tight to a wall when it’s time to bring the car in. By adding runners under the benchtop for stackable crates, you get fast, sortable storage for consumables, chargers and hand tools. It’s one of those DIY garage storage ideas that multiplies space without adding clutter.

What you’ll do

You’ll build a stout 2x4 frame with an 18 mm plywood top, fit heavy‑duty locking castors, and install simple timber runners beneath to hold plastic crates that slide like drawers. Size it to your space and working height.

• Outcome: A rock‑solid, roll‑anywhere bench with organised, under‑bench crate storage.

Tools and materials

Keep cuts square and fixings sized for strength. Measure your crates first, then set runner spacing to suit.

• Tools: Mitre/circular saw, drill/driver, square, tape, level, clamps, countersink bit, sander, PPE.
• Timber/board: 2x4s (approx. 45 × 90 mm) for frame/legs; 18 mm ply for top and a lower stretcher shelf (optional); 45 × 19 mm for crate runners.
• Hardware: 4 × heavy‑duty locking castors, wood screws (75–100 mm frame; 50–65 mm runners/top), angle brackets (optional), construction adhesive.
• Storage: Stackable plastic crates or milk crates (all the same size).
• Extras: Power board (RCD/overload protected), cable clips, finish (oil/paint) optional.

Steps at a glance

Sketch your footprint and crate layout first. Build the frame square, then tune runner spacing with an empty crate before you lock it in.

1. Cut and assemble a rectangular top frame with mid‑stretcher; add four legs and a lower rail for rigidity.
2. Flip, pre‑drill and bolt on castors at the corners; check all four brakes engage cleanly.
3. Screw down the 18 mm ply top; break edges and seal if desired.
4. Mark crate bays; fix paired 45 × 19 mm runners beneath the top so each crate slides freely with 5–10 mm clearance.
5. Test‑fit empty crates, then load a single crate and re‑check glide before filling the rest.
6. Mount a power board under the upper back rail; tidy cords and label crate fronts.

Cost and time in NZ

Most DIYers can complete this in a day: morning for the frame and casters, afternoon for runners and organisation. Pricing depends on timber and caster quality; reuse crates if you have them, and price new ones plus fixings at Mitre 10 or Bunnings.

Safety and load notes

Choose castors with a combined rating higher than the bench plus expected load, and lock brakes anytime you’re planing, chiselling or using a vice. Keep the heaviest items low (in crates or on a lower shelf) to reduce tip risk, and avoid overhanging loads near the roller door path. Use an RCD‑protected power board, manage cables, and mind fingers when sliding crates. Re‑check screws and caster bolts seasonally.

13. Add under‑shelf jar lids and drawer cabinets for small parts

Nothing kills momentum like hunting screws and plugs. Two budget classics tame the chaos: twist‑on under‑shelf jars for frequently used fixings, and a compact drawer cabinet for the rest. Together they keep tiny parts visible, dust‑free and right where you work, without eating benchtop space.

What you’ll do

You’ll screw jar lids to the underside of a shelf so the jars twist on/off, then mount a small‑parts drawer cabinet on the wall or side of a bench. Label everything so jobs stay snappy.

• Outcome: Fast, fingertip access to fixings and consumables with zero bench clutter.

Tools and materials

Gather jars first (all one size makes spacing easy), then set up for quick, repetitive screw‑offs.

• Drill/driver, awl/punch, small countersink, tape, pencil, PPE.
• Clean jars (250–500 ml) with metal lids, or sturdy plastic jars with screw lids.
• 12–16 mm pan/washer‑head screws (short enough not to poke through the shelf).
• Timber shelf underside (18 mm ply or solid), scrap ply backer if fixing to thin carcasses.
• Small‑parts drawer cabinet (clear drawers), mounting screws/anchors.
• Labels/marker; optional magnetic strip for bits and blades.

Steps at a glance

Mark once, repeat cleanly, and test a jar before committing to a full run.

1. Plan zones: high‑use fixings in jars under the front edge; bulk stock in the drawer cabinet nearby.
2. Lay out lid positions (80–100 mm centres); punch two or three holes per lid.
3. Pre‑drill pilot holes in the shelf; screw on lids snug, not distorted.
4. Test‑fit a jar—should twist on/off smoothly without dragging adjacent lids.
5. Fill/label jars (e.g., 8 g × 30 mm, brown plugs, M6 washers).
6. Mount the drawer cabinet into studs or a ply backer; sort and label the rest.

Cost and time in NZ

Expect 45–90 minutes if you’ve saved jars; the drawer cabinet is the main purchase. Price a compact unit and fixings at Mitre 10 or Bunnings, and reuse a spare shelf underside to keep costs low.

Safety and load notes

Use this for small, light items only. If the shelf is above head height or in a busy aisle, prefer plastic jars over glass. Keep clear of the roller door curtain/opener and car doors. Use short screws to avoid sharp tips; add washers if lids are thin. Don’t mount above heat sources or solvents, and re‑check lids/screws seasonally so nothing works loose.

Next steps

Pick one weekend and one project. Clear a bay, sketch your zones, then choose the win that unlocks the most space. For many garages that’s freeing the ceiling first: measure up for a compact roller door so hoists, bins and ladder racks have room to live, then add the French cleat wall and a mobile bench to anchor the whole system. Keep loads sensible, fix into studs or joists, and label as you go—future‑you will thank you.

Ready to reclaim that overhead? Swap bulky tracks for a tidy roller and make the rest of these builds plug‑and‑play. You can price, order and arrange install of an NZ‑made custom door online at DoorsNZ. Once the opening’s sorted, knock off one build per weekend and watch the floor reappear, the car fit first time, and the projects start faster because everything has a home.