Insulated Garage Door NZ: Brands, Prices, R-Values, Quotes

An insulated garage door is simply a door with two skins and a thermal core (usually EPS or PUR) that keeps heat in, draughts and noise out, and helps tame condensation. For New Zealand homes—especially rooms above or next to the garage—that can mean a warmer, quieter, more usable space all year round.

This guide compares leading NZ options head‑to‑head: sectional vs roller vs retrofit kits, R‑values and insulation cores, 2025 prices (single vs double, supply‑only vs installed), what drives your quote, how to measure and request quotes online, installation choices, and design upgrades—plus where DoorsNZ fits if you want a sharp online price.

Why insulation matters in New Zealand garages

New Zealand garages ride big temperature swings and coastal winds, and many are attached to living spaces or sit under bedrooms. Upgrading to an insulated garage door adds a thermal barrier at the largest opening, keeping the garage warmer in winter, quieter year‑round, and helping to tame condensation. Double‑skin insulated panels also reduce draughts and noise transfer from the street or workshop, improving comfort and energy efficiency for any rooms beside or above the garage—so the whole home feels more usable, more often.

Sectional vs roller vs retrofit: which suits your space

Choosing between a sectional, a roller, or a retrofit kit hinges on headroom, ceiling clutter, and comfort goals. Sectionals run quiet and warm but need about 200 mm headroom; rollers save space when rafters are busy; retrofits are the cheapest lift for older doors.

• Sectional doors: R 2.0–2.7; double‑skin interlocking panels; best for heated garages or rooms above.
• Insulated roller doors: R 1.3–1.8; coil into a compact drum; ideal with tight headroom or crowded rafters.
• Retrofit insulation kits: Around R 1.4; EPS/PUR boards; quick, low‑cost upgrade but seals and bridges limit gains.

Insulation cores and R-values explained for NZ homes

R-value is a measure of thermal resistance: higher numbers mean better insulation and less heat loss. For an insulated garage door NZ buyers typically choose between EPS and PUR/PIR cores. EPS is the cost-effective staple; PUR/PIR pushes performance higher while allowing a slimmer panel. Remember, overall warmth also depends on perimeter seals and thermal bridging through the skins and hardware, so look at the whole system, not just the foam.

• EPS (expanded polystyrene): About R 2.0 in sectional doors; sharp value for most temperate regions and occasional heating.
• PUR/PIR (polyurethane/polyiso): Roughly R 2.4–R 2.7; thinner, stiffer panels; expect a premium (often $250–$600 extra on a double) that pays off in colder zones or living-over-garage layouts.
• Insulated roller slats: R 1.3–R 1.8; best when headroom is tight; more thermal leakage at slat joints than sectionals.
• Retrofit kits: Around R 1.4; quick comfort boost, but existing door frames and seals limit ultimate performance.

Next, compare how NZ brands package these cores, profiles and R-values.

New Zealand brands to compare and what they offer

New Zealand has a strong line-up of insulated garage door brands, from nationwide networks to specialist makers. When you compare, look at door type (mainly sectional), insulation core, quoted R-values, and whether the range suits residential or commercial use—then pick the profile and finish that fits your home.

• Dominator: Insulated sectional doors aimed at a quieter, more comfortable garage.
• Garador: Insulated sectionals with NZ‑made insulation for warmth, noise control and efficiency.
• BND Group NZ: Insulated Series option for new sectional doors.
• Acedoors (Thermal Series): “Wairakei” insulated doors offering stronger thermal performance than standard.
• Sovereign Garage Doors: Double‑skin polyurethane‑filled construction across their range.
• Premium Garage Doors: 40 mm insulated panels around R 2.2 with custom paint options.
• Ulti Group: Highly customisable insulated sectionals for chilled or heated, controlled environments.

2025 prices in NZ: single vs double, supply-only vs installed

Here’s what to budget for an insulated garage door NZ‑wide in 2025 based on current supplier catalogues and installer quotes. Figures are NZD, GST‑in, and assume standard colours; they exclude openers and other extras.

• Sectional (supply‑only): Single $1,400–$2,600; Double $2,100–$3,900
• Sectional (fully installed): Single $2,400–$3,500; Double $2,800–$6,500
• Roller (supply‑only): Single $1,200–$1,800; Double $1,700–$3,000
• Roller (fully installed): Single $2,000–$2,900; Double $2,600–$4,700
• Wide/triple openings (installed): Sectional $5,200–$8,600; Roller $4,000–$6,400

The gap between supply‑only and installed typically covers labour, trim, seals and commissioning. Sectionals cost more but deliver higher R‑values; rollers save headroom and usually land mid‑range. Next, see what actually swings your quote up or down.

What drives your quote: size, wind zone, freight and extras

Your final price hinges on the door’s size, spec, and site. Wider openings need more panels and heavier torsion gear; higher R‑values and thicker skins add cost. Location matters too: coastal and high‑wind zones need upgrades, while South Island or rural deliveries attract freight. Factor in labour rates and the extras most quotes exclude.

• Door size & hardware: Singles cost less; doubles/wide doors need heavier springs and tracks.
• Insulation & skins: PUR upgrade on a double adds about $250–$600; 0.55 mm skins add 8–15%.
• Wind/coastal upgrades: Typically add 8–12% to the base price.
• Labour & complexity: Auckland/Wellington rates run 10–20% higher; tricky sites increase hours.
• Freight: South Island/rural surcharges often $250–$450.
• Common extras: Openers $480–$1,200 (higher‑torque for heavier doors), old‑door removal $150–$350, consent (structural changes) $450–$900, safety beams $110–$180, Wi‑Fi hubs $120–$250.

How to measure and request quotes online (step-by-step)

Accurate measurements get you accurate prices. Spend 10 minutes with a tape and your phone camera and you’ll avoid re-quotes, freight hiccups, and install surprises. Measure in millimetres, note the smallest dimension, and photograph anything that looks tricky.

1. Measure width (W): Between finished jambs at top, middle, bottom. Record the smallest.
2. Measure height (H): Floor to underside of lintel at left and right. Note any floor slope.
3. Check headroom (Headroom): Lintel to ceiling/lowest obstruction. Sectionals typically need about 200 mm; rollers vary—confirm drum clearance with your supplier.
4. Check sideroom: Space from each jamb to side walls/obstructions for tracks and springs. Measure both sides.
5. Measure backroom: From the opening back to the first obstruction (wall, lights, mezzanine) for tracks and opener.
6. Note site conditions: Wind zone/coastal exposure, power point location, and access (stairs, shared drive).
7. Choose your spec: Sectional or roller; EPS or PUR; profile/colour; opener yes/no; supply‑only or installed.
8. Add photos: Front of opening, inside ceiling, each side jamb, and any pipes/beams in the way.

When you submit a webform/email, include address (for freight), preferred install week, and ask for itemised pricing: door, opener, removal/disposal, wind/coastal upgrade, seals, labour, and freight. This lets you compare quotes apples‑to‑apples.

Installation options: DIY or professional fit-out

Both paths work in NZ—choose based on confidence, site complexity, and your time. Supply-only suits capable DIYers; professional fit-out shines where safety, speed, and finish matter most. DoorsNZ can supply for DIY or arrange optional installation support.

• DIY install: Best for straightforward openings and confident builders. You’ll measure, fix tracks, level, and commission the opener. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, use two people for lifting, and check warranty terms for self-install.
• Professional fit-out: Recommended for sectional doors with torsion springs, double-width/heavy doors, tight headroom, or coastal/wind-zone upgrades. Pros handle removal/disposal, balancing and tensioning, weather seals, and opener setup—usually faster and cleaner.

Design choices: profiles, colours, finishes and coastal upgrades

Your door’s look should work as hard as its insulation. For an insulated garage door NZ buyers can pick ribbed or flush profiles with negative detail lines, standard Coloursteel colours, and options like wood‑grain embossing. Non‑standard powder‑coat or textured finishes typically add 10–15% and extend lead times; heavier 0.55 mm skins add 8–15%. In coastal zones, specify the coastal/wind upgrade package (often +8–12%) to protect the finish and hardware.

Comfort gains: warmth, condensation and noise reduction

Swap in an insulated garage door and you feel it straight away: the garage holds heat, draughts drop, and everything sounds calmer. For heated garages or rooms above, reduced heat loss keeps temperatures steadier so heaters work less. A warmer inner skin cuts surface condensation (and the musty smell that follows), while double‑skin panels and tight seals mute road noise and workshop clatter.

• Warmth: Retains heat in winter and tempers summer highs.
• Condensation: Warmer inner skin and better seals reduce moisture.
• Noise: Quieter year‑round—less street and opener vibration.

Maintenance, servicing and warranties

Insulated doors are low‑maintenance, but comfort and quiet rely on simple care and periodic checks. Follow the maker’s schedule (often yearly) and use a pro for spring tensioning. In coastal zones, rinse salt. Warranty terms differ—DIY installs can carry conditions—keep all invoices and photos.

• Lubricate hinges and rollers.
• Keep tracks and seals clean.
• Test balance and auto‑reverse.

Buying online with DoorsNZ: supply, shipping and lead times

Buying supply-only from DoorsNZ keeps costs tight without skimping on quality. Send accurate measurements and photos, and we’ll quote your made‑to‑measure NZ door, opener, and any wind/coastal upgrades. Once approved, we manufacture locally in Coloursteel/Zincalume and ship nationwide—ideal if you’re pricing an insulated garage door NZ‑wide and want direct, transparent costs.

• Free North Island shipping on orders.
• South Island: subsidised Christchurch warehouse pick‑up; door‑to‑door to Dunedin, Southland and Nelson attracts an extra charge.
• Lead times: made‑to‑measure; standard colours are quickest, powder‑coat/peak seasons add time—confirmed at quote. Optional installation support available.

FAQs: insulated garage doors in NZ

Short answers to the most common questions about insulated garage doors in NZ.

• Is it worth it? For attached or heated garages: warmer, quieter, less condensation; immediate comfort gain.
• What R‑value should I aim for? Sectional EPS ~R 2.0; PUR/PIR R 2.4–2.7; rollers R 1.3–1.8.
• Do I need consent? Only if changing the opening/lintel; allow $450–$900 in council fees.
• How much headroom? Sectionals typically need ~200 mm; rollers vary with drum size.
• What does a double cost? Supply‑only $2.1k–$3.9k; installed $2.8k–$6.5k (NZD, GST‑in).
• DIY or professional? DIY is possible; pros recommended for torsion springs, doubles, and tight sites.

Key takeaways

Insulated doors make NZ garages warmer, quieter, and more usable. Sectionals lead on R‑value; rollers win when headroom is tight; retrofit kits are the budget stop‑gap. Prices swing with size, insulation spec, wind/coastal upgrades, labour, and freight—so measure carefully and compare itemised quotes.

• Top thermal: Sectional EPS ~R 2.0; PUR/PIR up to ~R 2.7.
• Budget guide: Double installed often lands $2.8k–$6.5k.
• Upgrades: Wind/coastal +8–12%; PUR add‑on ~$250–$600 (double).
• Extras to plan: Opener, old‑door removal, freight, safety beams.
• Install choice: DIY for simple; pros for torsion, doubles, tight sites.

Ready to price your door? Get a sharp online quote from DoorsNZ.